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Denmark in India? :- The Fort of Tranquebar in Tamilnadu

  • Writer: Hrishikesh Baskaran
    Hrishikesh Baskaran
  • Sep 26, 2021
  • 3 min read


The Fort of Tranquebar known in Tamil as "Tharangambadi" or the "Land of the Singing Waves" seems to be frozen in time with a rustic fort, quiet beaches, and Nordic dwellings sporting a deep Pink and Blue that could only be associated with houses in Scandinavia.

And yet all this seems curiously out-of-place in the blistering summer of Tamil Nadu in Southern India. Yet, this quiet town occupies an interesting place in history


For more than 200 years Tranquebar was a colony of Denmark. The first in India and one of the few in the world. Walking amongst the understated and minimalist dwellings of the town one will be easily amazed by how Out-of-Place the Scandinavian dwellings look in the tropical beaches of Southern India. And yet in 1620, the Danes established a fort named aptly after their country in this sleepy little town in Southern India named "Fort Dansborg". Danish General Ove Gjedde thought it would be a good idea to set up an outpost in Southern India to trade with the Nayaka Dynasty who ruled Tamil Nadu at the time. Of course, they also hoped to compete with the English, an effort which eventually ended in failure.


What makes Tranquebar particularly unique is its quaint and compact houses with a blend of Indian Esotericism and Danish Pragmatism. Houses with Tiled Red Roofs and Conical Pillars and a Traditional Courtyard coexist with White-Washed Churches, Striped Houses with hues of blue and yellow lacing them. An enigmatic blend that almost seems to rest perfectly against the peach sands of the town. Flanking the entrance of the Old Danish Town is a White-Washed Neo-Classical Styled Gate evoking memories of an era of Explorers and Merchants trading in sandy beaches. Amongst the most notable buildings include the Governor's Bungalow, stylistically understated. Dominating the skyline of Tranquebar is the pink and unassuming Fort Dansborg whose presence seems both prominent yet humble at the same time. All around the city lie traces of Denmark's maritime past including a Bronze Gilded Miniature Model of a Danish Ship, Danish Manuscripts, Chinese Porcelain, and paintings of the Danish Royal Family including Princess Sophia Magdalene in the Governor's Bungalow. Built facing the sea is an ancient 900-year-old Chola Temple built in the ancient Chinese Style of Architecture.


What makes Tranquebar particularly special is its strong ties to the history of Christianity in India. India's first bible translated and printed in the local language of the region Tamil was made possible by the Missionary Bartholomäus Ziegenbalg. It also laid the foundation for the rise of Protestantism in India. For years Ziegenbalg dedicated himself to learning and mastering a foreign language completely alien to him so that he could preach the gospel. While proselytization remains to this day a controversial issue, Ziegenbalg's dedication to the Gospel and helping uplift the town's poorest and most downtrodden cannot be disputed. He also built the "New Jerusalem Church" a white-washed church in the town that continues to function till this day. Today Tranquebar remains an important historic site for Protestantism in the country and this could not be reflected more in Churchbells and Morning Masses and the strong Local Protestant Association with ties to Denmark and Germany


The town of Tranquebar immediately transports one to the days of pioneers, explorers, smugglers, colonialists, and soldiers of fortune. More importantly, however, it reflects India's relationship with Europe and the rest of the world and is a throwback to a time when the high seas were the freeways of trade (and continue to be till now). To visit Tranquebar is at once re-visiting a time in history, where the Spice Trade, Colonialism, and Modernity converged to build the world we know today. And India did play a prominent role in this sequence of events. For all the above reasons and more, the town of Tranquebar is certainly worth a visit for those who wish to re-experience the past with a whiff of the soothing Sea Breeze.

 
 
 

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